2011 Archives

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I had a pretty bad infestation back in October 2010..went on vacation and found dog food infested with them when we came home….immediately got rid of the dog food but by then my dining room was pretty much infested….larva on the ceiling and in my china cabinet…we took up the carpeting and repainted…cleaned out every kitchen cabinet set off bombs and all …today I still see one flying around occassionly. ..I see no larva anywhere…just a lone moth here and there…I am constantly searching my food..we have set out the phermone taps and caught some..who long will this stage last and how long can i expect to see them.

As explained in our MOTH CONTROL ARTICLE, it can take a year or longer for the hatching pupae to run out and be “gone”. Since larvae only migrate after they feed, it’s not likely you’ll see any if they have some other food source you haven’t discovered. And once they get their fill and go into their pupae stage, they can hold up for many, many months so it’s not been nearly long enough just yet for this to be over. Pupae are what hatch out adults and these are usually in locations away from the food and well hidden. Hopefully these emerging adults won’t have a chance of mating and laying eggs so be sure to keep enough MOTH TRAPS set to make sure this doesn’t happen. And at some point you may need some SUPPRESSION TRAPS. For ongoing problems, these traps can be needed to break the cycle for good.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Moth Control Article:  http://www.indianmealmoths.com/meal-moth-control.html

Meal Moth Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

Suppression Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-suppression-kit-5-pk

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!



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Hey Jonathan,

We are worm breeders and currently have an infestation of moths. We are trying to resolve this problem but are taking care of it pretty slow. I wonder if you have ever dealt with this type of problem and if there is any solution without having to bomb our rooms.

We would like to keeep our bins which are filled with wheat bran and worms without having to do a room change. Is this possible?

Please let me know if there is anything we can do without moving everything?

This is a tough one. On one hand I know you’re trying to avoid the preparation work (in this case moving the worms and food) to another location while the infested room is treated. No doubt this would most likely be both time consuming and laborious to say the least. But in order to answer, I’ll need more information so for now, I’ll lay out some scenario’s which might provide enough of an understanding of the real “problem” so you can make a decision on how to best deal with the current problem as well as prevent future infestations.

In situations where animals are being farmed, there can be unique problems associated with any insect infestation that ensues. In this case, I’m fairly certain the meal moths are a direct result of all the wheat bran you keep. That means the wheat bran is what must be addressed and to what degree you want to regulate the moths will determine to what degree you will want to “pre treat” the bran. Let me further explain.

Lets say you’re okay with having infested bran; whether it has insects while still in sealed bags or when being dispersed as food for your worms. If that’s true, then nothing special will be needed to treat the bran prior to feeding your moths. That being said, if you simply store the bran in a freezer all the time, the amount of activity you note should be reduced. This is because you’ll be effectively “stalling” the development of any eggs and larvae that might be arriving in the bran when you either get it or store it. But it’s important to understand just freezing the bran won’t solve any problem. Bran that’s brought out into the open can harbor eggs and pupae which won’t die in the freezer so even if you go this route, I expect there will still be an ongoing problem to some degree. Maybe this will acceptable, maybe not. For now, lets say it’s not and you want to go to the next level of control.

The next level would involve keeping the bran elsewhere so you’ll be able to treat it prior to feeding it to the worms. For this option, you could forego having to freeze the bran all the time because you’ll be keeping the storage room treated. The advantage of this approach would be that you’ll actively be controlling any insects which means the bran being distributed to the worms won’t be infested. By doing so, there is a much less likelihood of the worm keeping rooms and bins getting infested. To accomplish this, you could use an aerosol or a fumigation type product. The easiest aerosol to employ would be the PURGE FLYING INSECT KILLER along with an AEROSOL DISPENSING MACHINE. This would handle up to 5000 cubic feet no problem and cans should last about a month depending on how often you configure the machines to release product. In my experience, start with once an hour and increase releases as needed.

A second option would be to install some INSECT STRIPS in the storage room with the bran. They’ll act the same way and can treat about 1200 cubic feet. That’s the equivalent of a room that measures 10’x13′ with an 8′ high ceiling.

In case you’re wondering; both treatments listed above do not provide any kind of residual. This means once the bran is removed and set out in an untreated room, it will loose any of the actives that were in the storage room and in doing so can be used as food safely for your worms.

Now the room with the worms is a different story. In my experience, keeping the breeding bin rooms free of insects can be tricky. In some cases, if the moths are already pupating “out of the soil bins”, a good cleaning will many times remove most of the cocoons and this can help quite a bit. Next, install both regular MEAL MOTH TRAPS along with the SUPPRESSION MOTH TRAPS. You’ll need both since the regular traps only catch males. This alone might do the job but you won’t know until you get traps installed and see what kind of population reduction you experience. At that point only you can make the call as to whether or not the amount of control you’re having is adequate. In some cases I’ve seen the use of traps do a great job by themselves and were the only means of “control” needed. But I’ve also seen extreme cases that have needed more work.

Having bred worms (in a much smaller scale I’m sure), I had to deal with several different insect infestations over the years. In once instance I had meal moths. They were so bad (feeding on the oat bran I was using in the worm bins) that the soil I kept the worms in was infested. So if you believe your the worm bin soil is infested too, you may have to do some soil treatments. What I did that was safe for the worms was to first remove as many worms as I could from my soil worm bins. Next I mixed up some INSECTICIDAL SOAP with water in a bucket and then took the bins outside in my yard. Next I poured the finished solution through the soil. No doubt this “purged” the soil of all the living insects. This treatment is organic and won’t last but a few hours. The next day I was able to use the soil again for my worms without putting them in any danger of any active that might be hanging around; Insecticidal Soap has no residual so it was essentially gone by the time I reused my soil.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Purge: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/purge-iii-6-25-oz

Aerosol Machine:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/equipment/foggers/aerosol-dispenser-1000

Insect Strip:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/repellents/fumigant/hotshot-no-pest-strip

Meal Moth Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

Suppression Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-suppression-kit-5-pk

Insecticidal Soap:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/organic/liquid/insecticidal-soap

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!



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dog food just purchased seems to be infested with them. will it harm my dogs to eat the dog food?? i can’t afford to throw it all out.

Actually the infested won’t pose any kind of danger or harm. Though most people believe there could be something bad about feeding their pet food which contains a few meal moth larvae, the fact is that dogs are able to digest and process these little guys quite well. Remember, they are dogs and their system is was built on being able to eat most anything. Since insects are mostly protein, any that are eaten are mostly beneficial from a nutritional point of view. However, there is another kind of risk you need to watch out for..

By knowingly keeping food which contains an active infestation of any insect, there is a good chance some will escape and migrate into your home. This would be bad. I would not be surprised if you develop a problem in the home due to the fact that you’re doing nothing other than storing infested food.

I’ve seen this many times and basically in every case, the problem started because people were keeping insect infested food. Now if you review our MEAL MOTH CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn more about this insect and why it can become such a nuisance. The bottom line is you may want to reconsider keeping the food if you don’t want a moth problem in the house. I say this because once they start, they can be a nightmare to get rid and problems can last for many, many months.

Alternatively you could choose to treat the storage area with some PT-PHANTOM. This will put in place a good barrier so that any foraging larvae that try to leave the infested food won’t be able to get very far. Installing some MOTH TRAPS would also be a good idea. This way if any adults start emerging, you’ll have some protection in place to help prevent a problem from getting a foothold.

Ideally, getting rid of the infested food would remove the threat of this happening. But if you must keep it as you say you will, then store it in a heavy plastic bag that you keep tightly sealed. Next, only remove what the pet will eat within a few minutes. Any food not consumed within a few minutes must be removed from the house by either dumping it out in the yard or by feeding it through your food “sinkerator” so the food and the pests are effectively washed down the drain. I say this because I’ve seen where merely tossing out the uneaten food in the garbage will allow some to migrate out. And since all it takes is one pregnant female to start a problem, this can lead to an infestation.

Another choice would be to save the food and keep it frozen all the time. I do this with bird seed. By keeping the food frozen, any eggs and other stages of insects that might be living in the seed are kept from developing. This way they can’t get into my home. And this will work with any pet food so you can do the same.

Phantom Aerosol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Moth Traps: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

Meal Moth Control:  http://www.indianmealmoths.com/meal-moth-control.html

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!



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About 2 weeks ago I seen the little worms crawling all over the cat food in my closet so immediately I freaked out and threw away all the cat food and any other kind of grain or cereal. and I sprayed bug spray EVERYWHERE. but now I am seeing all the moths flying around usually its around 2 or 3 a day and they sit right at the door way on the ceiling. I bought the pantry pest trap and it has only caught 3 moths so far. but my question is after all of the larvae hatch into moths will my problem be gone or do you think that they are still mating somewhere. there is no food in the back and I havent seen anymore worms so where are the moths coming from? and I thought once you take thier food source away then then you break the cycle and all I should see is the adult moths but I read something where the adult moths have to have food to emerge? HELP please.

If you read our MEAL MOTH CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn the moths you’re seeing are  hatching from their third stage. This stage is called pupae. As you’ll learn, you cannot kill the pupae so all the ones in your home will be hatching in the coming months and only when they’re completely used up will you stop seeing the adults. In other words, I’m sure this will be happening for the next 1-3 months.

And in case this cycle is not clear, here is a brief outline of what to expect. First, eggs are laid by adult female moths. The eggs are the first stage. The location of the eggs will typically be on or close to a food supply so when the eggs hatch, the “little worms” can feed. These worms are the second stage. After feeding, the worms spin a cocoon in which they remain for several weeks and undergo a metamorphosis. This is when they change from a worm to an adult moth. This cocoon is the third stage and referred to as the pupae. And once this change is complete, they’ll hatch as the adults you’re now seeing. Adult moths represent the fourth stage.

So to break the cycle, you need to first remove their food supply. Second, you’ll need to treat with a product like DFORCE or PHANTOM everywhere the moths are seen. Since adult moths will be laying eggs, having the Dforce in place to kill the worms when they hatch is critical to solving the problem. Next, you’ll need to set out lots of MOTH TRAPS. 3-6 are usually required per home. These will trap adults and in the end, help to both monitor the local activity and reduce the chance of re-infestation.

In summary, it sounds as though you’ve removed a lot of their potential food. However, it’s unclear if you’ve sprayed enough or if you’ve set out enough Moth Traps to make the proper impact. Remember, these guys can eat most anything and though removing their original food can have a big impact, once they’re inside the home they’ll be able to target an alternate food to sustain their population if you don’t take complete protective measures.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Meal Moth Control:  http://www.indianmealmoths.com/meal-moth-control.html

DForce:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Phantom: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/pt-phantom-17-5oz

Moth Traps:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!

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We’ve just discovered a meal moth larvae infestation, we don’t know how long it’s been there, as it’s in a rarely accessed part of a large room. The infestation seems fairly large, and there seems to be larvae right in the carpet, are these merely the shells, or hibernating cocoons of the larvae. Will we have to replace the carpet? We presume the infestation is in the Chinchilla (rodent) food very near to where we located the larvae. This is really distressing, and we’re not entirely sure of what to do, the larvae seem to keep appearing. We’ve only noticed this within the last hour, some advice would be invaluable. Currently, we’re trying to steam them out of the carpet with an iron, will this have any effect?

Steaming them won’t help. In fact, it will probably make the problem worse. The one thing this stage (larvae) needs beyond food is moisture. So once you start using this in the home and in particular, close to where they are no doubt nesting, the better the odds will be in their favor of surviving.

For now I suggest you treat as described in our MEAL MOTH CONTROL ARTICLE. In the article we talk about treating baseboards and other areas with a product called PERMETHRIN. Odorless and fast acting, it’s labeled for use on carpeting and will do the job. Basically one treatment is all you’ll need and it will last 30 days for sure. This way any larvae embedded or any that attempt to traverse over the treated area will die.

I also suggest you get a can of DFORCE or PHANTOM for treating any cracks and crevices where more might be hiding. Though you might be seeing some out and about in the living area, no doubt many more are out of view in tiny, hard to treat voids and cracks. The Dforce is ideal for this kind of treating.

Lastly, set out a couple of MEAL MOTH TRAPS. This way if a problem is developing, you’ll know as soon as it starts so you can take further protective measures.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Meal Moth Control Article:  http://www.indianmealmoths.com/meal-moth-control.html

Permethrin:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/permethrin-10

Dforce:  http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/aerosol/d-force-14-oz-aerosol

Meal Moth Traps: http://www.bugspraycart.com/traps/pheromone-and-food/meal-moth-2-pk

Give us a call if you need more help. Our toll free is 1-800-877-7290 and we’re open 8:00 AM to 7:00 PM Mon-Thur; 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM Friday and 9:00 AM to 1:00 PM Saturday, Eastern Standard Time.

Jonathan
Customer Care

PS: Please show your support for our business by purchasing the items we recommend from the links provided. Remember, this is the only way we can stay around and be here to answer your questions and keep our web site up and running. Thanks for your business!



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